The display relies on parallel RGB565 and SPI interfaces, and it’s supported by the ArduinoGFX library or the LovyanGFX library. The ESP32-S3 4-inch display board can be programmed with either Arduino or PlatformIO, and we’ll use the demo code provided by Makerfabs on GitHub for this review. Programming the Matouch_ESP32-S3 demo kit with Arduino/PlatformIO We can also peel the film on the adhesive paper on the speaker to attach it to the back of the frame. We can mount the ESP32-S3 4-inch Display board to the 3D-printed frame with the provided spacers, bolts, and nuts. The kit also comes with a speaker attached to the main board, a 3D printed frame/holder, a microSD card, a USB Type-C cable, and a screw set. The “Mabee TVOC and eCO2 SGP30 & Temperature and Humidity SHT31” module, which as its name implies, combines an SGP30 TVOC and eCO2 sensor (I2C address: 0x58) and an SHT31 temperature and humidity sensor (I2C address: 0x44), and operates at 3.3V. Temperature measurement range – -40☌~300☌, ☑.5☌ resolution.IR Thermal Sensor Array 32×24 (MLX90640).The Mabee MLX90640 thermal camera sensor with the following specifications: Expansion – 2x Mabee interfaces: 1x I2C 1xGPIO.USB – Dual USB Type-C (one for USB-to-UART and one for native USB) USB to UART Chip: CP2104.5 Points Touch, Capacitive via GT911 touch panel driver.4.0-inch IPS display with 480×480 resolution, 50+ FPS RGB 5/6/5+ SPI interface using ST7701S controller.Controller – ESP32-S3-WROOM-1, PCB Antenna, 16MB Flash, 8MB PSRAM, ESP32-S3-WROOM-1-N16R8.The mainboard of the MaTouch_ ESP32-S3 4-inch Display with the following specifications: When we unpack the box, we will find the device as in the picture, consisting of the following items: air quality monitors, or patient screening devices MaTouch_ESP32-S3 4-inch display demo kit unboxing It can be used to make various projects such as electronic photo frames. I have my MR-16 desk lamp sitting right beside my monitor and when evaluating my test prints I simply hold up print under the lamp and can get a good side by side comparison.Makerfabs MaTouch_ESP32-S3 4-inch Display Demo Kit is an ESP32-S3 development board with a 4-inch touchscreen display, a TVOC sensor, and a thermal camera. Just using ambient room light or incandescent lights is going to make it much harder to discern subtle color and tonal distinctions in the print. This can dramatically help with the evaluation of your prints. In my case it is a 4100K 35W 36 degree flood with an additonal glass diffuser. I have been using one of these for may years. You can also inexpensively make a viewing booth by getting a desktop or clamp on MR-16 fixture and using a SoLux MR-16 12Volt full spectrum bulbs. And they are sufficient for your purposes now, tying to sort out your color management workflow to get a better match with your prints. The consumer and prosumer software and hardware is just not going to give you anything better than the generic profiles provided by the manufactures. I concur with Kirby, don't even try to make your own print profiles. (In this regard research the differences between transmissive media (monitors) and reflectance media (paper) in order to calibrate(!) one's expectations appropriately.) Learn to softproof properly so that what you see on the monitor is reflected (pardon the pun) in the print. Sometimes there are problems but this is not the norm anymore. Yes, do some research on the particular printer/paper ICC profiles you are using and find out whether they are any good. Save yourself the extra expense for now and rather spend a bit of time really getting to grips with the art of softproofing and monitor calibration. Again, the occasional need for a custom profile may be something that a truly advanced user might require, but custom profiles are not required for most printer/paper combinations these days. But this is fine-tuning for very experienced exponents of the art of printing.įor now lets stick to the Printing 101 curriculum.Īs for ICC printer/paper profiles most third-party paper manufacturers actually produce very good profiles that are very accurate. It depends on the lighting in the room where you use Lightroom (or whatever application one is using to soft-proof images).īased on your post the monitor luminance is too high for the environment where you edit.ĭave is also correct in his observations about the effect that the viewing environment can have on a displayed print. What the correct luminance will be is nothing that can be cast in stone. If your prints appear to be too dark then one needs to reduce the luminance of the monitor. Luminance is the correct terminology to use. In the terminology of RGB printing 'brightness' is not a term. You should not be changing settings on the printer directly.
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